Only 84 bottles allocated to Australia. Blended from five parcels across 1.2 hectares of terroir, this wine is certainly the benchmark Lavaux and the signature cuvée of the Mortet Estate. It is also usually the most mineral wine released by the Domaine. Lavaux is always the last Mortet site to be harvested due to the vineyard’s location, immediately next door to Clos St-Jacques, and in the direct path of the cool airstreams that flow down from the Combe de Lavaux.
Mortet worked with roughly 30% stems this year. He had been using more and more whole bunches, and now, more hand de-stemmed berries as he searches for ever greater finesse. Something like a third of the fruit was whole bunches here and a third also hand de-stemmed!
The result is an unbelievably fine and pure. The ‘rustic’ comment from Meadows is just plain wrong! He must have struck the wine on an off day—or vice-versa. The wine is in fact the very antithesis of rustic! Rather it is positively pretty, unbelievably perfumed, lifted and fine. The other notes are a far better guide.
“Outstanding. Firm reduction dominates the fruit today. Otherwise, and as is usually the case, this is easily the biggest and most powerful wine in the range among the Mortet 1ers with its overtly muscular big-bodied flavors that exude a subtle minerality on the textured, youthfully austere and very firmly structured finish. This is certainly impressive and especially so for the vintage though I find it somewhat more rustic than usual.” 91-93 points, Allan Meadows, Burghound
“It has a crisp and well-defined bouquet with black cherries, raspberry and rose petals that unfurls beautifully with time. The palate is medium-bodied with precise tannins, extremely detailed, not long in the mouth with surfeit freshness and tension, and a touch of white pepper on the finish. Sophisticated and classy.” 94-96 points, Neal Martin, Vinous
“Domaine Denis Mortet have five small plots of Lavaux. There is fair depth of colour here, with a very intense bouquet comprising some new oak and rich fresh fruit. This fills the mouth perfectly, is very gracious, and extends to a lovely smooth even finish. Graceful and classy.” 92-94 points, Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy
“The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques is also performing very well from bottle, unwinding to reveal aromas of wild berries, orange rind, warm spices, raw cocoa, rich soil tones and peonies. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, deep and enveloping, with a fleshy core of fruit that entirely conceals the wine's powdery tannins, ripe acids and a perfumed finish. This is a supremely charming Lavaux Saint-Jacques that will offer a broad drinking window.” 93 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
“The Mortets' five parcels here cover 1.2ha in all, and run from the top of the Combe de Lavaux to the bottom, close to the Clos St-Jacques. Fermented without whole bunches, this is another superb red from Arnaud Mortet, now established as one of the best red winemakers in Burgundy. It's juicy, textured and crunchy, with the acidity that's typical of the terroir and deftly handled 80% new wood.” 96 points, Tim Atkin MW, Decanter