Largely 50yo plantings. Destemmed, open-top fermented and on skins for a meagre 10 days. 18 months in French oak (25% new). Fine and powdery tannins, reliant on what is clearly high-quality wood and a brief extraction window. It works. Black/blue fruits, a sluice of anise and clove and a whiff of violet. Warm. Generous. Yet these descriptives are at times inane and repetitive. It is the texture that makes any good wine and for an estate bottling, this has a generous fealty to region and winning texture tattooed into its being. Drink to 2028. 92 Points. Ned Goodwin MW, Halliday's Wine Companion.