This Domaine has a number of cuvées that often fall into what would traditionally be called demi-sec territory. However, Chidaine prefers to call these wines tendre, or ‘gently dry’. This is because the level of sweetness can fluctuate wildly depending on the vintage. Like the great wines of the Mosel, these are wines where the sugar/acid balance is more important than residual levels. They are powered by their ripeness rather than sweetness and finish tangy and fresh.
This three-hectare clos sits just above the Clos de Breuil, on a plateau where the silex (flint) gives way to broken chalk and clay. It’s home to 60-year-old guyot- and bush-trained vines that are hand-harvested in tris with very low yields (circa 30 hl/ht). The 2018 is another powerful (and surprisingly dry) wine, with only 10 g/L residual (considerably lower than the mid-teen figures we usually find). It’s a wonderfully aromatic beast, all peaches and apricots, with a rich, round and deep palate that’s textured yet truly dry, with a warm, saline and mineral close.
“The 2018 Montlouis Clos Habert is creamy and expansive in the glass, some of that coming from the tendre style and the higher residual sugar in this wine vis-à-vis some of the earlier bottlings in this tasting. Pastry, apricot, jasmine, baked apple, spice, lemon confit and light tropical accents give the Clos Habert tons of appeal.” 94 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous.
“The residual sugar is much lower than I would usually expect from this vintage at 10 g/l (it is sometimes more than double that but it is usually in the teens, at least). This slightly lighter style come across on the nose which has a very fresh, minerally, pure and focused style at the start. There is toasted fruit as an opener on the palate, followed by caramelised apples and pears, with a rich thread of praline and toast, all lifted by a citrus vivacity and some really rather impressive acidity at its heart. It has a delightful flavour profile. Overall, this is impressive.” 95 points, Chris Kissack, The Wine Doctor.