Bernhard Huber Alte Reben Spatburgunder 2019

Our Malterdinger Spätburgunder Alte Reben is labelled as old-vine VDP Ortswein but we think of it as a village 1er cru from our home in Malterdingen. The Pinot Noir grapes grow on weathered shell limestone, with the vines aged 20 to 45 years. After the traditional must fermentation, the 18-month maturation takes place in small first-, second- and third-use French oak barrels filled with first, two and thirds. The wine is bottled without filtration. - Julian Huber

At once concentrated and filigree, this is a stunning pinot noir for a village wine. The beautifully integrated, fine tannins and lively acidity lift this far above the crowd of wines in this category. Very long and mineral finish. Drink or hold. 94 points. Stuart Pigott, jamessuckling.com September 2021