Disg. August 2020.
This is a very special wine from a very special plot of dirt. It comes from one-third of a hectare of vines in the renowned Avize vineyard called La Fosse aux Pourceaux. This 0.3-hectare section of La Fosse lies on the very chalkiest portion of the slope near the village, contrasting with the more clay-rich soils of the Avizoise cuvée. The vines were planted in 1959 and so are extremely old by Champagne standards. This single parcel cuvée is therefore made in only tiny quantities each year. The wine is named after the Boulonnais mare, Vénus, that first ploughed the vineyard.
Today, this is one of the truly great cuvées of Champagne; it always shows incredible depth, and yet retains finesse and mineral intensity, with pillowy layers of texture and serious complexity. It is a magical, intense wine that is worth decanting when young. It will also benefit from two or three years further aging and demands food. Treat it like a great white wine, served at the table with proper wine glasses, and you will be greatly rewarded.
“The 2014 Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Vénus is sourced from vines planted in 1959 in the La Fosse lieu-dit, a tiny parcel measuring just 0.3 hectares that is worked by horse. It is a stunning Champagne. Initially somewhat reticent, the Vénus literally explodes with a few hours of opening. Rich, exotic and wonderfully resonant, with soaring aromatics, the 2014 captures all of the intensity of Avize, showing tons of depth and class to burn. I suggest opening it several hours in advance, which will really allow the citrus, floral and mineral flavors to come alive. The 2014 was fermented in neutral oak and aged on the cork.” 96 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous